Automatic Movement Watch Setup
For Sub Style, GMT, Date J, and AP Oak watches:
Thanks for entrusting us with building your new watch! Let's get you accustomed to your hand-built watch and explain how to set it up.
Movement: The watch models above use either the NH35 (Sub Style, Date J, AP Oak) or NH34 (GMT) automatic movements. They are self-winding mechanical movements, meaning there is no battery and are powered by movement and/or self winding.
Winding the movement: During shipping and when it's not worn for a while, the movement can lose its charge over time and the watch will stop. This is normal and you just have to wind it again or gently shake it depending on how much charge is left. A fully charged movement takes between 55-65 full rotations of the crown and will last up to 40+ hours.
To wind the watch, unscrew the crown (turn it towards you) until it ‘pops’ out, then rotate the crown clockwise (away from you) about 20-50 times depending how much charge it needs. This will wind the spring and start the automatic movement again.
Setting the date, GMT, and time: To set the date, unscrew the crown (turn it towards you) until it ‘pops’ out, then very gently put it outwards until you feel it click into the first position. Rotate the crown counter clockwise (toward you) to set the date.
If you have a GMT model, stay in this position and rotate clockwise (away from you) to set the GMT hand position. Please note that 1 full rotation of the GMT hand is 24 hours (as opposed to the hour hand which is 12 hours), therefore the GMT hand moves at half the speed of the hour hand. This also matches with the 24 hour bezel.
Now to set the time, pull the crown outwards again until it clicks into it’s most outer position. Now rotate the crown clockwise (away from you) to set the time. Please note that you should only rotate clockwise in this position to set the time. Rotating counter clockwise in this position may cause unnecessary strain and reduce the longevity of the movement.
Securing the crown: Now that you have finished setting up your watch. Push the crown inwards and rotate it clockwise (away from you) until it is fully screwed and secure. This is required to make sure the crown is fully closed.